The Pasta Filata Group, Smoked Cheese, and Pairings
Grace luebben
What do provolone and mozzarella have in common? Both are pasta filata cheeses. Though the Italian term pasta filata is literally translated to “spun paste” or “spun curd,” this category of cheese is also often called plastic curd, drawn curd, or pulled curd. Cheeses in this group (which is the second largest group after cheddar cheeses) are similar because of the stretching that they undergo during the manufacturing process.
Once curds are created they need to reach a ph level between 4.9 and 5.2 before the stretching process. Due to the acid, calcium is removed from protein structures, which allows for the formation of a protein network that is conducive to stretching. After the curds have underwent a lengthy ripening period and reached the appropriate ph level, the curds are then sliced into cubes. These chunks are then steeped in either hot water or whey. When the curds are removed from the bath, they are kneaded, stretched, and manipulated in order to obtain the desired fibrous or spun structure. This stretchiness demonstrates why pasta filata received its name.
Pasta filata cheeses are typically white and sweet. However, after the stretching process they can be aged or smoked for more character. Both provolone and mozzarella can be smoked. Generally, these more firm cheeses are preferred because they can withstand the heat better. Smoking cheese does not necessarily make it keep longer, but it does instill it with extra flavor and, depending on the amount of time smoked, can darken the color of the cheese. The type of wood used during smoking, such as oak, cherry, maple, etc. will also affect the final smoky flavor. Cheeses can be smoked using liquid smoke, hot smoke, and cold smoke.
Many cheeses at the grocery store will be liquid smoked because this method creates a very strong flavor. This liquid smoke can permeate cheese while in a brine, or can go directly into the milk before curds are created. Moreover, liquid smoke does not leave residues like tar. On the other hand, hot smoking is not often used because the recommended temperature, which is between 130 and 175 degrees Fahrenheit, cooks most cheeses. Therefore, cold smoke is the preferred method because it does not partially cook the cheese, but rather softens it as it gives the cheese a sophisticated flavor. The temperatures desired for cold smoking range from 70 to 90 degrees. In order to cold smoke the cheese, one could create an outdoor smoker, use a wood heater, or even smoke the cheese on a stove top. There are also various other contraptions one could purchase or create in order to cold smoke cheese. When one does smoke the cheese, it should first be kept in the refrigerator overnight, then removed and returned to room temperature the next morning. It should be kept dry the entire time. When smoked, the smoke should be directed toward the cheese. However, a pan of cold water should be in between the heat source and the cheese in order to keep the cheese from cooking. This process can take a few hours to a month, depending on individual preferences. When finished, allow the cheese to cool…and enjoy!
As previously mentioned, aging also strengthens the flavor of the cheese. There is much speculation surrounding the continued presence of coagulant during aging. Intriguingly, during the heating process before stretching, many people state that the coagulant used will be deactivated. Thus, it would not affect the breakdown of protein during aging. However, recent studies have found that during the aging of pasta filata, lingering coagulant can be found. This residual coagulant does cause extensive proteolysis, or the breakdown of proteins. Moreover, keep in mind that while many pasta filata cheeses, like provolone, are aged, mozzarella is not aged and is best eaten fresh. In fact, this longer ripening process gives provolone a more pronounced flavor than mozzarella.
Mozzarella is the most popular pasta filata. In fact, after 2001 it surpassed Cheddar and became America’s favorite cheese! In 2009, each American ate roughly 32.8 pounds of cheese. Of that, 10.6 pounds were mozzarella. Unfortunately, while traditional mozzarella is fermented and very flavorful, most of the mozzarella made in the United States is not fermented and, therefore, does not have the same tangy flavor. Instead, the mozzarella made in the U.S. is generally low-moisture or 30-minute mozzarella, which is treated with citric acid. This is fast, cheap, and increases the shelf-life of the cheese.
Pairings:
According to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, the delightful taste of mozzarella goes well with many wines and beers, such as Beaujolais, Champagne, Chardonnay, Chianti, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pilsner, and Weiss Beer. Mozzarella also tastes delicious with beef, butter and water crackers, chicken or turkey, pork, vegetables, and whole grain or wheat breads. Moreover, provolone can also be successfully paired with many drinks and foods. For instance, many find provolone delectable when paired with Beaujolais, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chianti, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Lager, Pale Ale, Pilsner, Porter, and Stout. Provolone is also wonderful paired with the following foods: butter and water crackers, chicken and turkey, dried fruits, nuts, olives, pears, vegetables, and whole grain or wheat breads.
Once curds are created they need to reach a ph level between 4.9 and 5.2 before the stretching process. Due to the acid, calcium is removed from protein structures, which allows for the formation of a protein network that is conducive to stretching. After the curds have underwent a lengthy ripening period and reached the appropriate ph level, the curds are then sliced into cubes. These chunks are then steeped in either hot water or whey. When the curds are removed from the bath, they are kneaded, stretched, and manipulated in order to obtain the desired fibrous or spun structure. This stretchiness demonstrates why pasta filata received its name.
Pasta filata cheeses are typically white and sweet. However, after the stretching process they can be aged or smoked for more character. Both provolone and mozzarella can be smoked. Generally, these more firm cheeses are preferred because they can withstand the heat better. Smoking cheese does not necessarily make it keep longer, but it does instill it with extra flavor and, depending on the amount of time smoked, can darken the color of the cheese. The type of wood used during smoking, such as oak, cherry, maple, etc. will also affect the final smoky flavor. Cheeses can be smoked using liquid smoke, hot smoke, and cold smoke.
Many cheeses at the grocery store will be liquid smoked because this method creates a very strong flavor. This liquid smoke can permeate cheese while in a brine, or can go directly into the milk before curds are created. Moreover, liquid smoke does not leave residues like tar. On the other hand, hot smoking is not often used because the recommended temperature, which is between 130 and 175 degrees Fahrenheit, cooks most cheeses. Therefore, cold smoke is the preferred method because it does not partially cook the cheese, but rather softens it as it gives the cheese a sophisticated flavor. The temperatures desired for cold smoking range from 70 to 90 degrees. In order to cold smoke the cheese, one could create an outdoor smoker, use a wood heater, or even smoke the cheese on a stove top. There are also various other contraptions one could purchase or create in order to cold smoke cheese. When one does smoke the cheese, it should first be kept in the refrigerator overnight, then removed and returned to room temperature the next morning. It should be kept dry the entire time. When smoked, the smoke should be directed toward the cheese. However, a pan of cold water should be in between the heat source and the cheese in order to keep the cheese from cooking. This process can take a few hours to a month, depending on individual preferences. When finished, allow the cheese to cool…and enjoy!
As previously mentioned, aging also strengthens the flavor of the cheese. There is much speculation surrounding the continued presence of coagulant during aging. Intriguingly, during the heating process before stretching, many people state that the coagulant used will be deactivated. Thus, it would not affect the breakdown of protein during aging. However, recent studies have found that during the aging of pasta filata, lingering coagulant can be found. This residual coagulant does cause extensive proteolysis, or the breakdown of proteins. Moreover, keep in mind that while many pasta filata cheeses, like provolone, are aged, mozzarella is not aged and is best eaten fresh. In fact, this longer ripening process gives provolone a more pronounced flavor than mozzarella.
Mozzarella is the most popular pasta filata. In fact, after 2001 it surpassed Cheddar and became America’s favorite cheese! In 2009, each American ate roughly 32.8 pounds of cheese. Of that, 10.6 pounds were mozzarella. Unfortunately, while traditional mozzarella is fermented and very flavorful, most of the mozzarella made in the United States is not fermented and, therefore, does not have the same tangy flavor. Instead, the mozzarella made in the U.S. is generally low-moisture or 30-minute mozzarella, which is treated with citric acid. This is fast, cheap, and increases the shelf-life of the cheese.
Pairings:
According to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, the delightful taste of mozzarella goes well with many wines and beers, such as Beaujolais, Champagne, Chardonnay, Chianti, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pilsner, and Weiss Beer. Mozzarella also tastes delicious with beef, butter and water crackers, chicken or turkey, pork, vegetables, and whole grain or wheat breads. Moreover, provolone can also be successfully paired with many drinks and foods. For instance, many find provolone delectable when paired with Beaujolais, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chianti, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Lager, Pale Ale, Pilsner, Porter, and Stout. Provolone is also wonderful paired with the following foods: butter and water crackers, chicken and turkey, dried fruits, nuts, olives, pears, vegetables, and whole grain or wheat breads.
Sources:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/a-mozzarella-treat-to-make-at-home.html?_r=0
https://gianacliscaldwell.wordpress.com/2013/03/20/stretchy-secrets-pasta-filata-cheeses/
http://culturecheesemag.com/cheese-iq/pasta-filata
http://chefsblade.monster.com/training/articles/980-how-to-classify-cheese?page=8
http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/entertainment/pairings/Pairing-Article?cid=37
http://www.baltvita.lt/index.php?id=390
http://www.cheesesociety.org/i-heart-cheese/just-for-fun/
http://www.igourmet.com/smokedcheese.asp
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-pasta-filata.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-smoked-cheese.htm
http://www.streetdirectory.com/food_editorials/snacks/cheese/cheese_consumption_in_the_united_states.html
https://books.google.com/books?id=FVTSAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA86&lpg=PA86&dq=how+many+pounds+of+mozzarella+are+produced+each+year+in+the+US&source=bl&ots=KvcoXbqYXS&sig=ftbaIjojzyDjafwcGUPbE_0yXTQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=HQUCVeC0HYijyASFvIGoDA&ved=0CE4Q6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=how%20many%20pounds%20of%20mozzarella%20are%20produced%20each%20year%20in%20the%20US&f=false
http://www.agmrc.org/commodities__products/livestock/dairy/cheese-industry-profile/
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/a-mozzarella-treat-to-make-at-home.html?_r=0
https://gianacliscaldwell.wordpress.com/2013/03/20/stretchy-secrets-pasta-filata-cheeses/
http://culturecheesemag.com/cheese-iq/pasta-filata
http://chefsblade.monster.com/training/articles/980-how-to-classify-cheese?page=8
http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/entertainment/pairings/Pairing-Article?cid=37
http://www.baltvita.lt/index.php?id=390
http://www.cheesesociety.org/i-heart-cheese/just-for-fun/
http://www.igourmet.com/smokedcheese.asp
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-pasta-filata.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-smoked-cheese.htm
http://www.streetdirectory.com/food_editorials/snacks/cheese/cheese_consumption_in_the_united_states.html
https://books.google.com/books?id=FVTSAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA86&lpg=PA86&dq=how+many+pounds+of+mozzarella+are+produced+each+year+in+the+US&source=bl&ots=KvcoXbqYXS&sig=ftbaIjojzyDjafwcGUPbE_0yXTQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=HQUCVeC0HYijyASFvIGoDA&ved=0CE4Q6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=how%20many%20pounds%20of%20mozzarella%20are%20produced%20each%20year%20in%20the%20US&f=false
http://www.agmrc.org/commodities__products/livestock/dairy/cheese-industry-profile/